| The Family of DOC Lambrusco wines |
Since ancient times, the number three has been considered in many cultures as a symbol of
perfection, representing the concept of multiplicity in unity Like all things significant,
DOC Lambrusco could not fail to conform to this rule and so it is that Modena possesses
not just one DOC Lambrusco, but three:
As members of the same illustrious Lambrusco family, they obviously share certain common traits. But each has its own distinct character, depending, first of all, on the different natural attributes of the vines employed, the diverse soil composition and microclimatic features of the various zones of origin, and, last but not least, on men's work. These three distinctive and very individual wines have long constituted the Lambrusco "aristocracy'; reaching the highest levels of quality and coming together in one great passion for enjoyment and marvellous cooking.
Grape variety
It is made from a vine of the same name, Lambrusco di Sorbara, which is a native variety
of remote origins. It grows in sparse, conical clusters bearing spherical fruits, the
abundance of which varies from year to year (while the grapes retain the same size of a
few millimetres). This is due to a flowering anomaly, that can give rise to a considerable
loss of fruit. It is has now been ascertained that the phenomenon, typical of Lambrusco di
Sorbara, is caused, above all, by the sterility of the pollen.
In some years, it has been known to bring about a drop of over 30% in the amount of grapes
harvested for production.
But it is this peculiarity that makes it so outstanding, memorable and particularly
admired. It stands alone among the range of Lambrusco wines and shares its qualified
position with other noble vines cultivated in Italy and France (the prime example being
Picolit).
As we have said, production is always limited and, in some years, it is extremely hard to
come by But what is lacking in quantity is more than made up for in quality, always of the
highest.
To facilitate fertilisation the Sorbara vine is cultivated with a percentage of Salamino
Lambrusco, the vines growing side by side in the same vineyard.
Region of origin and geology
The traditional area of cultivation lies between the Secchia and Panaro rivers. Formed
from a conjunction of the flood plains of the two rivers, its soils are mainly sandy and
loose, permeable and rich in potassium. The further we move away from this area, the more
mixed the soil is, becoming mainly clayey outside the area delimited by the rules of
production.
When the vine is grown on soils with a higher clay content, the wine takes on a deeper
colour than usual and loses much of its scent. Cultivated in the hilly zones and at the
foot of hills close to Modena and in the bordering provinces, the vine appears very much
the same to those growing on clayey soils.
Bouquet
Ruby to garnet with a pinkish froth, it is the lightest in colour of Modena's three DOC
Lambruscos. It has a fresh, pronounced, very fine scent, with a distinct hint of violets,
which represents the most typical and distinctive characteristic of this wine. Its taste
is delicate, tangy and well-balanced, pleasantly acidulous and fruity due to its high
acidity and rather unpronounced body (easy and delicious to drink when still young).
Rather than a symphony or fullorchestral piece, it is better likened to a solo
composition, but performed with such harmony and so refined in style, that the audience is
held completely enthralled. Without doubt, it is the perfect match for the more
substantial dishes of the renowned Emilian cuisine.
Grape variety
This wine is produced from the Lambrusco Grasparossa variety Although not possessing great
vigour; the vine is distinguished by a special characteristic: with the arrival of autumn,
not only the leaves turn red, but also the stalk and pedicels. The relevant production
rules permit the Lambrusco Grasparossa vine to be cultivated alongside a modest percentage
of Lambrusco and Fortana ("Uva d'Oro") varieties. None the less the wine is
essentially derived from the vine of the same name. The sparse, conical-shaped cluster is
medium in length with roundish fruits. The grapes range from plummy dark blue to blackish,
have a thick skin and contain a medium juicy, sweetish, slightly acidulous pulp.
Due to its lack of vigour, the Lambrusco Grasparossa vine is best cultivated in smaller
vineyards, where it does well, even on rather poor soils, such as those on the lower
slopes of the Modenese hills. It bears up well to climatic and other adversities, and
matures fairly late, after waiting to capture the very last rays of the autumn sunshine
(years ago, harvesting went on well into November).
Area of origin and geology
The vine grows on the dry soils of the Modenese uplands and lower hill-slopes, an area
dotted with country mansions and ancient castles, where the Apennine chain, rising up to
the peak of Monte Cimone, provides the cornice of an undulating landscape of rare beauty.
In terms of surface lithology, the region demarcated by the production guidelines can be
divided into two distinct areas: the upland zone and a lower hill-slope zone. The soils
typifying the uplands are low in permeability, rather infertile and difficult to work,
being largely composed of sandy and marly clays, as well as scaly clays englobing
limestone blocks of variable size. Here, the yield is far from abundant, although high in
quality and of marked characteristics. Lower down, the soils are made up of silt deposits
and silty sands lying on a bed of gravel and therefore offer a good degree of
permeability. On this land, the Lambrusco Grasparossa produces more abundant yields,
maintaining similar characteristics to those encountered in the upland wines. It should be
noted that while, in the course of history this native upland vine gradually worked its
way down onto the lower slopes, thanks to the presence specific microclimatic conditions
and a certain type of terrain, it has never spread out over the plain.
Bouquet
The wine is deep ruby in colour; with a violet sheen and a light froth with an edge of the
same hue. The notable bouquet is fruity fragrant and interesting, bringing to mind the
aroma of the grape. According to Agazzotti "it emanates a pleasant scent of
peach-almonds". Its keen, harmonious flavour has delicious body, is well-balanced in
acidity and slightly fruity leaving a pleasant, somewhat bitter aftertaste. It makes an
excellent aperitif and goes divinely with Modena's typical pastries and desserts.
Grape variety
This wine essentially comes from the Lambrusco Salamino grapevine. However, the production
guidelines permit Lambrusco Salamino grapes to be cultivated alongside a small percentage
of Lambrusco and Fortana vines, the latter being locally referred to as "Uva
d'Oro" (golden grapes). Thus, we can affirm that it is from the vine of the same name
that this wine is substantially derived.
Cylindrical or conical in shape, the cluster is rather small, thin and compact, has an
average length of 10-12 cm and often incorporates an off-shoot. The same cluster bears
spherical grapes of different sizes, with a thick, robust skin of a plummy blue-black
colour. The grapes contain a juicy pulp with a slightly sweet, acidic taste.
The Lambrusco Salamino vine is vigorous, ensuring a prolific and constant yield. Its
grapes ripen in early October, having stored all the light and heat of the summer and
autumn sunshine.
Spring and summer pruning of the vines is performed in order to reduce the load of
clusters borne by each root and guarantee that the sun's rays reach every part of the
cluster, ensuring a complete and uniform ripening.
Region of origin and geology
The wine originates from the area around the town of Carpi, in the north-western sector of
the Modena province, and from the adjacent flatlands in the north-east of the same
province.
In fact, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce takes its name from a district of the Carpi
municipality which, in ancient times, was the centre that distributed the wine throughout
Modena and bordering provinces.
The vineyards of Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce are cultivated on soils made fertile by
the incessant effort of man over two thousand years.
Of ancient origin, the soils are due to the gradual accumulation of sediment left behind
by the flooding of the various rivers and streams that cross the Modenese plains from
south to north: sands, silts and clays are present throughout the area in more or less
equal proportions.
Bouquet
It has a deep ruby colour and a purple-edged froth, reflecting the sheen of the wine
itself The scent is delicate, refreshing, persistent and fruity with a distinct vinous
touch reminiscent of ripened grapes. Harmoniously scented, slightly acidic and refreshing
in taste, it is of average but adequate body and moderate in alcohol content.
This wine is an easy, enjoyable drink, lively, straightforward and informal. It appeals to
all palates and perfectly matches not only the typical pasta dishes of Emilia, but also
any of its richer first courses, as well as roast meats, especially poultry, rabbit or
pork.